Genies, magic and science

It seems most Burkinabé (well at least amongst the main ethnicity, the Mossi) believe in genies. Genies live in a parallel universe and are all around us, even though we are not able to see them. They live like us but are able to see things that humans do not. They can predict the future and have the capacity to teleport physical objects across continents. Indeed, at one time they were visible and humans treated them as slaves. An interesting belief also attributes wet dreams to genies. If a single genie lady sees you and is attracted by you, you will dream of her making love to you (I refer to this as 'genie rape'). Particularly in villages, where the toilet and shower (laitrine) is open air, men will only have showers before 9pm (in certain villages - and not necessarily far from urban centres - this is a rule). If not, the lustful genie ladies on the prowl will see the nude human man and take him during the night. Many also believe that white people are genies, and that other genies helped white people to invent the aeroplane and the telephone. It is believed that aeroplanes need gold (either on board or mixed into the fabric) to fly. If there is no gold, the gold-loving genies will not allow the plane to take off. Some humans have the ability to communicate with genies. Through such conversations they can learn of the future, and I have been told of instances where Burkinabé making the pilgrimage to Mecca have travelled without flying thanks to the powers of the genies.

The recent solar eclipse gave more insights into how Burkinabé see the world. Many were fascinated, others were scared, with many people staying inside the whole day. During the eve of the eclipse, I was speaking to a local shop owner in the sleepy town of Houndé in the west of the country­. He wondered whether other people in the world were also able to see the eclipse. I confirmed that they would. He then wondered whether we were all looking at the same sun. I confirmed that we were. He then wondered if he could reach the sun if he climbed to the top of a high mountain. On this occasion I had to disappoint him and attempt to explain the whole concept of space in extremely simplified French in a few minutes. Many Burkinabé are educated, particularly in the cities. But in an extremely underdeveloped country where people are raised in villages in a certain reality, we cannot always assume we share the same ingrained assumptions about our universe, nor that our beliefs are necessarily more true than theirs.  

It is a fantastic experience getting to know the locals here - to exchange and to learn about each others' cultures. There are so many similarities in the ways we live and our attitudes that it can be shocking (sometimes in the negative sense and others simply in terms of the fascination) to then find other areas - such as gender equality, sexuality and magic - where attitudes are completely at odds. But this is why three months of volunteering in Africa is just not nearly enough. I've only scratched the surface. 

Photo: 'Dolo': millet-based alcohol at 20p/litre

Photo: l'accueil des gens d'Houndé

Photo: Walking salesman in Bobo-Dioulasso